Introduction
I began my mountain adventures in childhood. With my parents and sister, we conquered lower and higher peaks in Poland. In my youth, I continued trekking in the highest parts of the Tatra Mountains. The greatest achievement was climbing Mount Kilimanjaro over 15 years ago. Climbing the highest mountain in Africa was not easy, but it brought a lot of satisfaction and is one of the most significant achievements in life. After Kilimanjaro, there was the Caucasus and the Andes. I still remember the beautiful views of the Caucasus and the Andes. I have also described mountain expeditions in this blog. For years, I have wanted to wander through the highest mountains in the world. The word “trekking” seems most appropriate for someone who lacks experience, preparation, equipment, and the desire to climb using ropes, hooks, and other high-altitude gear. It turns out that the Himalayas offer fantastic trekking opportunities for people with determination, average fitness, and good mountain boots. Some of these routes include:
- Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) – a mountain expedition for 7-10 days (depending on the chosen route, fitness, trekking pace), the highest point is approximately 4100 meters above sea level.
- Everest Base Camp (EBC) – 8-10 days, the highest trekking point is 5600 meters above sea level.
- Annapurna Circuit – about 20 days, the highest point is 5400 meters above sea level.
The most popular is EBC, and most people choose it because of the highest mountain in the world. Monika and I were less ambitious and chose ABC.
Formalities and Preparations
Theoretically (according to the regulation that has been in effect since April 2023), trekking to ABC can only be done with a licensed guide. At the end of September 2023, the law was only in effect on paper. In Pokhara, we went to the office where permits for the ABC trek are issued (they are mandatory and were checked twice on the trail). I marked the office on the map as ACAP Permit & TIMS Counter.
Unfortunately, the office’s working hours are quite arbitrary. In theory, it should be open from 9:00 to 17:00, but on Fridays, it usually closes at 15:00. During our stay, the doors were closed to new customers around 15:00.
On-site, we fill out a form. We didn’t fill in anything in the sections related to the tourist agency and guide. The official filled in n/a for us. We paid 3000 NPR for ACAP (permit to enter the Annapurna Conservation Area). People going with an agency or guide also pay an additional 2000 NPR for the TIMS (Trekkers Information Management System) Card. Theoretically, people walking without a guide are not registered in the TIMS system :). ACAP and TIMS can also be obtained in Kathmandu.
Which Route to Choose – 4 Options
Aside from formalities, choosing the route, or at least its beginning, is crucial. There are several options:
- The most publicized version is a combination of ABC and Poon Hill. Poon Hill is a hill 🙂 at an altitude of about 3200 meters above sea level, offering a magnificent view of the Himalayan peaks. From Poon Hill, with very good visibility, you can see Dhaulagiri 8167 m, Annapurna I 8091 m, Annapurna South 7219 m, Machapuchare 6993 m, Annapurna II 7937 m, Annapurna III 7555 m, Gangapurna 7455 m, Tukuche peak 6920 m, Dhampus peak 6012 m, Hiunchuli 6441 m, Gurja Himal 7193 m, Nilgiri Himal 7061 m. With cloudy skies, nothing will be visible. Choosing to climb Poon Hill will extend the trek by 2-3 days. On the map, the route is marked in blue.
- A version for enthusiasts. We start from Nayapul and end at ABC. From Nayapul, we walk for 1-2 days to Ghandruk or Jhinu Danda, practically the same road that buses (to Ghandruk) and jeeps (to Ghandruk and Jhinu Danda) take. Although the traffic is not heavy, in my opinion, it makes no sense to walk a route that can be covered by jeep, especially since it is only a very modest prelude to the actual ABC trail. Similarly hopeless is starting the trek in another location reachable by jeep. If you want to walk a bit longer, option 1 is ideal. On the map, the route is marked in brown.
- Starting the trail in Ghandruk, reached by bus from Pokhara, is one of two optimal routes. On the first day of trekking, we reach Chhomrong, which, in my opinion, is the starting point for the proper trekking trail to ABC. Regardless of where we start trekking, Chhomrong is the place from which everyone takes the same route to ABC. The trek from Ghandruk to Chhomrong took us the whole day. Along the way, we dealt with a leech attack, as described below. On the map, the route is marked in green.
- Starting the trail in Jhinu Danda (famous for hot springs). We can reach Jhinu Danda by jeep from Nayapul (about 3 hours). From Jhinu Danda, a very steep trail leads to Chhomrong (about 3 hours). Starting the trail in Jhinu Danda is optimal and will save energy for the proper mountain expedition to ABC. On the map, the route is marked in red.
In summary, options 4, 3, 1 (the order is not accidental) are optimal. As I mentioned, from Chhomrong, there is no choice; there is only one trail to ABC. On the map, I marked this section in black.
On the Trail
Below is a detailed description of the trek:
1 day.
We started the 1-day trek to Annapurna Base Camp from Pokhara at 7:00. We headed to the Pokhara Baglung Bus Park bus station. The taxi to the station cost 400 NPR. At the station, we boarded a bus to Ghandruk (500 NPR). An alternative to the bus is a jeep, which departs from the Hari Chok Bus Station (Nayapul, Ghandruk, Lumre). Jeeps are 2-3 times more expensive than buses, but they provide a faster and supposedly safer journey to the destination. However, the jeep departs only when it gathers a full load of passengers, which is 7 people. If you want to leave earlier, you have to pay for the empty seats, with one seat costing 1000-1500 rupees, and renting the entire jeep costs 7000 NPR. We opted for the bus, which departs from Pokhara at 8:00. It’s best to arrive at the station around 7:30 to get a better seat. The journey took about 4 hours (jeep about 2 hours) and was full of thrilling experiences. The winding mountain road was washed out by water. The bus crossed the mountain stream several times, cutting across the road. Sometimes the road was so narrow that the wheel was just a few centimeters away from the abyss. Theoretically, we could have started trekking in Nayapul. Ghandruk is about 15 km away (with a height difference of about 1000 m). The bus or jeep ride provides much greater excitement than trekking along the vehicle road. Just after Nayapul, there was a checkpoint where Rangers checked the ACAP permit. The driver took care of the formalities, showed our permit, and brought it back without any problems and no questions about the guide. In Ghandruk, we stayed at Shangri-La Guest House Restaurant. The accommodation cost 1200 rupees on the condition that meals are consumed in the guest house. We got a room with a bathroom and hot water. Unfortunately, it rained continuously in the second half of the day. We sat on the terrace, from which there was a beautiful view of the mountains covered by thick clouds. Sitting on the terrace, we wished away the rain.
For lunch, we had spaghetti, which was mediocre. For dinner, we ordered momo dumplings – very tasty. The conclusion is that in Nepal, you should order Nepalese, not Italian food. Expenses for the first day included accommodation (1200 NPR) for a room with a bathroom and hot water. The water was lukewarm, not hot, due to solar panel power, and the day was cloudy. Lunch, dinner, and breakfast cost 3000 INR. We paid for food and accommodation only at check-out. This rule applied to all teashops (shelters) during the trek.
2 day
The second day of the ABC expedition was essentially the first day of trekking. We started the morning with heavy rain. Fortunately, it cleared up a bit after breakfast, and we set off on the journey. We faced a very tough day ahead. Initially, an ascent from 1900 m to about 2200 m, only to descend to about 1800 m later. We crossed a precarious bridge over the river and then a rushing stream over slippery stones, nearly falling into the water. However, leeches were a more significant problem, attaching to our shoes during the march and quickly crawling up to socks and even higher to the skin. They sucked quite a bit of blood from me. Every 15 minutes, we stopped to remove leeches feasting on our bodies. Generally, they were attached to the calves, but one managed to climb up to my armpit. Before I noticed it, it had feasted on my blood to its fill. After crossing another bridge, a very steep climb into the mountains began. Not only was the route exceptionally steep, but it also started raining. We completed the challenging trek in about 8 hours with two breaks of around 30 minutes each. Two tips from the first day on the trail:
- Wear long pants to make it more difficult for leeches to have a blood feast.
- Don’t discard plastic bottles. From Chhomrong onwards, you cannot buy bottled mineral water. Water is available for refilling empty bottles. It’s also a good idea to bring water purification tablets. This will save a good amount of money on buying boiled water in teashops. In Poland, I bought Javel Aqua water purification tablets, 20 pieces, for 20 PLN. Filling plastic bottles with drinking water costs 120 NPR (4 PLN), while a bottle of mineral water in Pokhara costs 25 NPR. Water from the tap, purified with tablets, never harmed us and tasted quite okay.
In Chhomrong, we stayed at the International Guest House. We paid 600 rupees for a double room. The bathroom and shower were shared. The water was hot because the power source was gas, not solar panels, which are weather-dependent. The total bill for meals and accommodation for two people was 3300 NPR. As usual, we settled it at check-out.
3 day
We started the day quite late because my quick-drying T-shirt from Decathlon didn’t dry overnight. We tried to minimize the weight on our backs and brought minimal amounts of essential things. On the first day, I had to use three shirts (1 sweaty, 1 soaked by rain), which I washed in the evening. In the morning, an incredible view of the snowy Himalayan peaks appeared before my eyes. Machhapuchhare, the sacred peak, was clearly visible. After breakfast, my shirts were dry, and around 9, we set out on the journey. The ambitious goal was to reach Bamboo. Unfortunately, I was in such terrible shape that I could barely walk. Two steps, a break for 6 deep breaths. As a result, around 2 pm, exhausted, I reached Upper Sinua. Monika was in excellent shape and wanted to go further. Unfortunately, my form did not allow for such a feat, and we stayed overnight at Sinua Guest House. What exhausted me so much? In the morning, we started from an altitude of 2200, descended to 1800, and then climbed very steeply to an altitude of 2300. The steep ascent in full sun with no wind clearly depleted my strength. Only when I bought a Coca-Cola, and my brain received a proper dose of sugar, did I start to feel a bit better. But still, three times slower than Monika. A lesson for the future is to bring electrolytes for demanding treks. The next day we have a very ambitious plan to cover over 10 km and reach an altitude of 3200 m. With my current form, these can only be dreams. Nevertheless, we plan to get up at 6:30 and start the journey without breakfast.
4 day
The ambitious plan failed, and we reached Himalaya, which turned out to be a favorable circumstance in retrospect. We covered about 8.5 km and climbed over 800 m. The route was demanding, but compared to the previous day, I felt much better. Unfortunately, Monika had stomach problems, which had a decisive impact on the night in Himalaya. The accommodation cost 600 NPR, a hot shower 250 NPR, and food around 2500 NPR. During trekking, there is a rule: the higher you go, the higher the food prices.
5 day
The most ambitious day, which we started at 2900 m (Himalaya) and finished at Machapuchare Base Camp (MBC) (3700 m), about 6 km very steep uphill. The trek took us about 5 hours. We had time to go to Annapurna Base Camp (ABC), but due to the risk of altitude sickness, we decided to stay overnight at MBC, which was a very good decision. Although the ascent was extremely steep, I felt much better than on the third day when I had the biggest crisis of the entire trek. The most challenging part of the day was crossing the rushing mountain river near Deurali, using two sticks. Without the help of a random porter, I wouldn’t have been able to pass or would have ended up in the cold mountain stream. We spent practically the whole afternoon in MBC, acclimatizing before the attack on the summit. The weather was very nice, and the views of the surrounding peaks were incredible. Accommodation with food cost 5700 rupees. There was also the option of taking a hot shower for 250 rupees in the tea house. After sunset, it quickly becomes very cold. The temperature drops below 5 degrees.
6 day
After breakfast, we start the final stage of the climb to ABC. Trekking is very tough due to altitude. We cover a few kilometers from 3700 m. to 4100 m. in 3 hours. Monika has a headache. Beautiful views compensate for the demanding march. During trekking and at the top, I take a lot of photos. Late in the afternoon, a storm passes over ABC, and the low pressure drops even more. I fall asleep very quickly. At night, the temperature drops to around zero degrees.
Day 7
Wake-up at 5:45, and we head to the viewpoint. A beautiful view of Annapurna and Machhaphuchhare unfolds at sunrise. Annapurna’s peak is surrounded by small clouds, unfortunately preventing the spectacular ‘golden strip’ view that appears just after sunrise due to light reflection. Luck was not on our side. Nevertheless, the view is magnificent, and despite the piercing cold, we observe the surrounding mountains for about 2 hours.
After returning to the teashop, we have breakfast and settle the bill. The cost of accommodation and food at ABC is around 6000 rupees. Monika is increasingly feeling the effects of altitude sickness. It’s time to descend. We descend very quickly, occasionally marveling at the views. We descended 12 km (1600 m down) at a fast pace. At around 2500 m above sea level, Monika felt much better. We stay overnight at Dovan Guest House & Restaurant teashop. The conditions are great, highly recommended. We pay 3060 INR for accommodation with meals and 2 hot showers.
8 Day
Before 8:00, we set out on the next part of the journey. Monika plans to reach Hot Springs. For most of the day, the descent is going well, sometimes more steeply, sometimes less. The pivotal moment is the extensive village of Chhomrong. Just before the bridge, heavy rain begins. Hastily, we put on raincoats and cover our backpacks with rain covers. We walk in the rain to the nearest restaurant, where we wait out the rain. After an hour, it stops raining, and we cross the river on a sturdy bridge. A steep climb begins with countless stairs. I am totally exhausted, similar to the experience on the 3rd day of the ascent. I don’t have the strength to go to Hot Springs, our final trekking destination. We postpone the hot spring bath to the next day. We stay at the International Guest-House and Restaurant, the same teashop as on the way to ABC. Accommodation with meals costs about 4000 rupees. I recommend this teashop.
9 Day
The last day of trekking was not as easy as I expected. The very steep descent from Chhomrong to Jhinu Danda took us over 1.30 h. We stopped at the decent Namaste hotel. A room with a bathroom cost 1500 rupees. After lunch, we headed to the hot springs. It turned out that the hot springs are much farther than I expected. To reach Hot Springs, you have to go steeply down to the river. The trek took us about 30 minutes. Jhinu Danda hot spring has 2 pools with warm water, max 40 degrees. For Monika, water at 40 degrees is cool. She didn’t even change into a swimsuit. I jumped into one of the two pools. The bath was relaxing, but the water could be warmer. We were alone in the hot springs for half an hour. Then enthusiasts of hot baths started to arrive. Overall, I rate the Hot Springs in Jhinu Danda as a very average attraction. After the ABC trek, it’s a questionable recovery that has to be paid for with an hour-long steep trek first down and then up. And the water in the hot springs is only warm.
Interesting Facts from the ABC Trek
- The maximum backpack weight is 6-7 kg plus 1-2 liters of water. The less we have on our backs, the greater the chance of success. What to bring on the trek to minimize backpack weight:
- T-shirts – 3-5 depending on quality. Decathlon T-shirts did not work well during the first days of trekking through the jungle. After an hour of trekking, they were completely wet. I needed 3 shirts in one day.
- Raincoat, sturdy raincoats are sold in Pokhara (200-300 NPR).
- Long pants with detachable legs (2 pairs), essential because leeches attack during trekking.
- Sturdy and comfortable ankle-high hiking boots.
- Shower sandals for teashop use.
- Socks (2 pairs), preferably with merino wool. They provide comfort on warm and cool days, wick moisture well, and don’t smell after a full day of trekking.
- Sleeping bag, unfortunately necessary as teashop bedding is not clean. The sleeping bag doesn’t have to be warm; a comfort temperature of 10-15 degrees is sufficient.
- Pajamas or underwear that will serve as pajamas.
- Underwear, 3-4 pieces, lightweight and quick-drying.
- Lightweight fleece – useful in MBC and ABC, where the temperature is below 5 degrees Celsius.
- Light thermal shirt with long sleeves.
- Toothbrush and minimalistic washing supplies.
- Cap that protects not only the head but also the neck from the sun.
- Winter hat useful at ABC during sunrise.
- First aid kit: pain relievers, anti-inflammatory drugs, plasters, antidiarrheal medication, antiseptic, cold medicine, acetazolamide for altitude sickness, blister plasters, electrolytes, water purification tablets.
- Is it necessary to hire a licensed guide for ABC? The answer is no. Theoretically (according to the regulation in force since April 2023), trekking to ABC can only be done with a licensed guide. At the end of September 2023, the law only existed on paper. In Pokhara, we went to the office where permits for the ABC trek are issued (they are mandatory and were checked twice on the trail). The office is open from 9:00 to 17:00, but on Fridays only until 15:00. Office hours should be treated very flexibly. There is a lunch break in the middle of the day. I marked the office on the map: ACAP Permit & TIMS Counter
On-site, we fill out the form. We didn’t fill in anything regarding the travel agency and guide. The clerk wrote n/a for us. We paid 3000 NPR for ACAP (permit to enter the Annapurna Conservation Area). Individuals going with an agency or guide additionally pay 2000 NPR for the TIMS (Trekkers Information Management System) Card. Theoretically, individuals trekking without a guide are not recorded in the TIMS system :). ACAP and TIMS can also be obtained in Kathmandu.
- Great fitness and preparation are not needed to conquer ABC. Regular cycling, jogging, intense walking, or regular swimming will provide sufficient fitness.
- Most people we met on the trail were between 25 and 30 years old. ‘Seniors’ over 40 were very rare. The oldest person we met on the trail was a 72-year-old man from New Zealand.
- Most people were from South Korea.
- On the ABC trail, I encountered 4 types of trekkers:
- ‘experienced tough guys,’ who bought a permit and went with backpacks without a guide and porters.
- ‘tough guys with principles,’ who, according to the regulation, hired a guide but carried their own luggage.
- ‘cautious conquerors,’ who packed economically and appropriately for the challenge (backpack weighing up to 10 kg), but lack of faith in their own strength led them to hire a porter and usually a guide.
- ‘idiots’ who took baggage (usually large suitcases) even up to 20 kg with everything they could take, including face masks. Under such weight, even the strongest porters struggled on difficult sections of the trail. In one teashop, I saw a Japanese man applying creams to his face and adjusting his eyebrows. And his girlfriend went trekking in full makeup.
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