Angkor & Floating Village: Journey Through Khmer Empire

Our flight from Bangkok to Siem Reap took just over an hour. At the airport, I paid $20 for a visa plus an extra 100 THB for not having a photo for the visa application. (Fun fact: Siem Reap Airport was originally built in the 1940s during French colonial rule).

We quickly found accommodation – a triple room cost just $12. The guesthouse was in the Old Market area, which was once the heart of Siem Reap when it was just a small village serving Angkor’s explorers in the early 20th century.

In the evening, we purchased a 3-day Angkor pass (now $62 in 2025) and entered the archaeological park to watch sunset over Angkor Wat. Pro tip: The west-facing upper level (closed in 2025 for restoration) offers the best views. The temple was originally dedicated to Vishnu in the 12th century before becoming a Buddhist site.

Dinner at a local Cambodian eatery was delightful and incredibly cheap: $1 for a meal, $1 for beer, and $1-1.5 for fresh fruit juices. Did you know? Cambodian cuisine uses more bitter flavors than Thai food, with ingredients like morning glory and kampot pepper.

Angkor- Banteay
Banteay Kdei – the “Citadel of Chambers” built in late 12th century

We started the next day before dawn ($2 breakfast, $10 tuk-tuk for the day). Angkor Wat took us over 2 hours to explore properly. Historical insight: The moat represents the cosmic ocean, while the central towers symbolize Mount Meru, home of Hindu gods.

Angkor Thom, the last capital of the Khmer Empire, amazed us with Bayon’s 216 smiling faces. Archaeologists still debate whether these represent King Jayavarman VII or the bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara. The city once housed up to 150,000 people – more than any European city at the time.

The third day was less intense. We explored Preah Khan (“Sacred Sword”), originally a Buddhist university with over 1,000 teachers. Nearby Ta Prohm (famous from Tomb Raider) showed nature reclaiming the stones – the silk-cotton trees growing through walls are now over 400 years old!

Angkor Ta Prohm
Ta Prohm – where nature and architecture merge

Our final temple day focused on the Roluos Group (9th century) – the earliest Khmer capital. Bakong temple’s pyramid design influenced later Angkor architecture. Travel advice: Visit these before the main temples to appreciate Angkor’s architectural evolution.

Returning in 2025, I noticed Siem Reap’s transformation – Chinese-funded roads replaced dusty tracks. Yet Angkor’s magic remains. Conservation fact: German Apsara Conservation Project has been restoring delicate carvings since 1995.

Angkor Phnom Bakheng
Phnom Bakheng – the first temple-mountain at Angkor

Floating Village reality check: Our $10 boat trip to Chong Kneas was disappointing in dry season (March). The “floating” houses stood on dry land hundreds of meters from Tonle Sap lake. Local insight: Visit June-October when water rises up to 10 meters, creating the true floating village effect.

Final stop: the sobering Landmine Museum (40km round trip, $5 transport). Founded by former child soldier Aki Ra, it reminds visitors of Cambodia’s tragic recent history while funding demining efforts.

Floating Village
Chong Kneas floating village in wet season

Key Takeaways:

  • 3 days minimum for Angkor (1 day is sacrilege!)
  • Visit Floating Village only in wet season
  • Try amok curry – Cambodia’s national dish
  • Sunrise at Angkor Wat, sunset at Phnom Bakheng
  • Carry small USD bills (Cambodia’s unofficial second currency)