Ecuador’s Amazon – Between Magic and Mass Tourism

At 11 PM, we left chilly, rainy Quito for an overnight bus journey to Lago Agrio – gateway to Ecuador’s Amazon. After eight hours crossing the Andes, the hot Oriente climate embraced us like a long-lost friend. From Lago Agrio, a shuttle took us to the Cuyabeno River, where a motorboat awaited to transport us to Samona Lodge – our home for the next five days.

Did you know? Established in 1979, Cuyabeno Reserve spans 6,034 km² of rainforest and ranks among Earth’s most biodiverse places. It shelters over 500 bird species and 12,000 plant varieties!

The lodge pleasantly surprised us – multi-level thatched cabins with bathrooms (though river water gave towels a permanent brown tint). After a week, our towels developed such intense odors they required plastic bag quarantine. Meals (3 daily) proved delicious and varied – though I was disappointed not to try legendary monkey soup. Daily clothing and shoe checks for uninvited guests (tarantulas, scorpions, snakes) became routine.

Amazon jungle view in Cuyabeno Reserve
The mysterious world of the Amazon jungle in the Cuyabeno Reserve

Nighttime Caiman Hunts and Jungle Safaris

Our first evening featured a caiman search with flashlights along riverbanks. Though many red-eyed reptiles disappeared underwater as we approached, we spotted several specimens, including one true giant. The highlight? Holding a baby caiman – only three of us (myself included) dared this encounter.

Subsequent days involved muddy jungle treks, river crossings, and log-balancing over deep ravines. Wildlife proved scarce – just distant monkeys, one water turtle, and a boa during night safari. Birds, spiders and frogs compensated abundantly. Tiny, neon-colored tree frogs left the strongest impression – utterly unlike their Polish cousins.

Life experience: Our guide offered us… live ants! Their lemony, peppery taste (from formic acid) surprised everyone – like honey with a spicy kick.

Shaman during jungle ceremony
Shaman from the Siona tribe during a traditional ceremony

Indigenous Encounter – Between Tradition and Tourism

Day three brought a village visit that disappointed some – instead of spear-wielding warriors, we met Spanish-speaking locals in jeans and T-shirts. A woman demonstrated traditional manioc bread (“casabe”) preparation, while we attempted blowgun target practice – my orange hit earned applause.

The real highlight was the shaman. Unlike “modernized” villagers, he received us in full ritual regalia – feathered headdress and animal-tooth necklaces. His healing stories alternated with chants and prayers. When I volunteered for cleansing, he “purged evil spirits” by whipping me with branches. Others who experienced “healing” with nettle-like plants bore itchy welts for days…

Jungle Reflections – Between Wonder and Disappointment

Our final day featured peaceful canoeing – a stark contrast to noisy motorboats. Silence let us approach wildlife closely.

Though fascinating, the experience left me conflicted. Too many motorboats, too many tourists, too little wilderness. Samona Lodge was just one of several similar operations, with regular tourism clearly deterring larger animals. My next Amazon visit will target less commercialized areas.

Amazon river view
Yellow Poison Arrow Frog

Practical tips for jungle travelers:

  • Choose less touristy areas than Cuyabeno
  • Pack sealable bags for smelly laundry – humidity breeds odors
  • Expect military checkpoints – we endured three between Oriente and Quito, including one thorough personal search
  • Consider longer stays – 5 days minimum to feel Amazon’s magic