Introduction: A Journey Through Kyiv to Persia

A trip to Iran is not just a geographical expedition—it’s a journey through time to the cradle of one of the world’s oldest civilizations. Our adventure begins, however, in Kyiv, where we spend a 12-hour layover. Despite the ongoing conflict in eastern Ukraine, the capital buzzes with life, enchanting visitors with its architecture and vibrant atmosphere. Fun fact: Kyiv boasts over 1,500 years of history and was once the heart of the Kyivan Rus’, the precursor to modern Eastern Slavic nations.

Amir Chakhmaq Complex in Yazd
Amir Chakhmaq Complex in Yazd

During a short stay in Kyiv, don’t miss these highlights:

  • The Golden Gate – remnants of 11th-century defensive walls
  • Saint Sophia’s Cathedral – a UNESCO World Heritage Site
  • Kyiv Pechersk Lavra – Ukraine’s most important Orthodox monastery
  • Khreshchatyk Street – the city’s main thoroughfare with striking Stalinist architecture

Airport Visa (VOA) – A Practical Guide

After a day of exploring Kyiv, we board our flight to Tehran. The journey takes about four hours. We land at 1:30 AM at Imam Khomeini International Airport, the main gateway to Iran for most travelers. Did you know? Iran welcomes around 5 million tourists annually, a number steadily rising thanks to relaxed visa policies.

The Visa on Arrival (VOA) process can be tedious, but with these tips, you’ll breeze through:

  1. Insurance – Head to the “Insurance” counter first. Cost: ~€15. Fun fact: Iranian insurance is often cheaper than European options and valid nationwide.
  2. Visa Form – With your insurance slip, proceed to the “Visa” counter for the application form. Groups traveling together share one form.
  3. Filling the Form – Under “occupation,” avoid media or military-related jobs. “Clerk” is a safe bet. For “sponsor,” list your hotel (a formality).
  4. Waiting Game – After submission, expect a 1–2 hour wait. Perfect time to chat with fellow travelers—Iranians are famously hospitable, even at airports!
  5. Payment – When your name is called, collect the slip and pay €75 at the bank counter (2022 price).
  6. Visa Collection – Return to the visa counter with your receipt to get your passport. Congratulations! You’ve entered Iran—a land with 7,000 years of history!
Murals in Hamadan
Murals in Hamadan

Iran Visa Fun Facts:

  • Since 2016, VOAs are issued for 30 days, extendable in major cities.
  • Israeli passport stamps no longer guarantee automatic rejection (but verify beforehand).
  • Solo female travelers might face extra questions but generally face no issues.

Currency Exchange – Where and How?

Before leaving the airport, exchange money. Ironically, the best rates (as of 2022) were at Tehran’s international airport. Find the exchange booth upstairs in the departures hall. Exchange a larger sum—rates elsewhere may be worse.

Iranian Currency Quirk: Due to hyperinflation, a new rial was introduced in 2020 (1 new rial = 10,000 old), but prices are often quoted in “tomans” (1 toman = 10 rials). Confusing? Absolutely!

Si-o-se-pol Bridge in Isfahan
Si-o-se-pol Bridge in Isfahan

Airport to City Transport: Best to grab a taxi dropping off passengers. Official fare: ~$25, but negotiate down to $20. We paid 650,000 IRR (~$16 in 2022), but locals pay around 300,000 IRR.

Iranian Hospitality: Even at the airport, you’ll experience legendary Persian warmth. Don’t be surprised if locals offer help with formalities or invite you for tea—a cultural norm where guests are considered “gifts from God.”