Isfahan: The Jewel of Persia and “Half the World”

The journey from Kashan to Isfahan takes just 3 hours by bus (about $4), but transports you to what was once the capital of the Safavid Empire and among the world’s greatest cities. Today, Isfahan – nicknamed “Nesf-e Jahan” (Half the World) – dazzles visitors with its breathtaking architecture and enchanting atmosphere.

Isfahan
The magnificent Naqsh-e Jahan Square at golden hour

Heart of the City: Naqsh-e Jahan Square

This colossal square (1,680 feet long) is a 17th-century urban masterpiece and UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its perimeter showcases Persia’s architectural crown jewels:

  • Imam Mosque (~$5 entry) – A Persian architectural gem with dazzling blue mosaics. Don’t miss the incredible acoustics – whispers beneath the main dome resonate throughout!
  • Ali Qapu Palace (~$5) – Shah Abbas I’s royal residence featuring a panoramic terrace. Pro tip: The music room’s ceiling niches create perfect acoustics.
  • Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque (~$5) – The “women’s mosque” built for the Shah’s harem, with a dome that changes color throughout the day.
Ali Qapu Pavilion in Isfahan
The elegant Ali Qapu Palace overlooking the square

Friday Mosque & Hidden Gems

Walking from the square toward the Jameh Mosque, detour to the lesser-known Ali Mosque to see rare human depictions uncommon in Islamic art. The Friday Mosque itself is an architectural timeline – its oldest sections date to the 11th century!

Bridges Over Zayandeh River

Isfahan’s illuminated bridges become magical at night:

  • Si-o-se Pol (33 Arches) – The city’s longest bridge and favorite local promenade
  • Khaju Bridge – Shah Abbas II’s multifunctional masterpiece serving as both dam and meeting place

The riverbanks reveal authentic Isfahani life – young couples holding hands (technically forbidden), families picnicking, and fascinating contrasts between conservative and liberal residents.

Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque in Isfahan
The color-shifting dome of Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque

Armenian Quarter: Jolfa

Across the river lies the Armenian quarter with stunning Vank Cathedral (~$5). Its interior blends Persian and European influences – gilded frescoes depict biblical scenes in Persian attire. Don’t miss the adjacent museum detailing Armenian history in Iran.

Essential Travel Tips

  • Stay: Traditional guesthouses near the square offer authentic charm (~$15/night)
  • Transport: Metro is cheap ($0.20), but taxis are affordable too (~$2 from station)
  • Eat: Try “biryani” – Isfahan’s signature lamb and herb dish
  • Shop: The bazaar offers exquisite handicrafts – miniatures, copperware, and jewelry

Isfahan isn’t just seen – it’s felt. Its magic lives in the scent of rosewater, the glow of illuminated bridges at dusk, and the warm hospitality of its people.