Cozumel & Isla Mujeres: Mexico’s Caribbean Gems Between Reefs and Hurricanes
We greeted another morning with slight hangovers but bravely packed our backpacks and continued our journey. A bus took us to Playa del Carmen (25 pesos), then a ferry (110 pesos) to Cozumel – an island with rich Mayan history that was once an important worship center for the moon goddess Ixchel. Today it’s a tourist hotspot, though it didn’t quite meet our expectations.
We found accommodation for 220 pesos per room and set out to explore. Cozumel is a place of contrasts: seaside areas feature manicured resorts with expensive restaurants and boutiques, but just a few streets inland reveals authentic Mexico with colorful houses and local taquerias.
The beaches proved disappointing – rocky and damaged by Hurricane Wilma in 2005, which transformed the island’s landscape. We took a taxi (100 pesos) to the recommended “Corona” beach a few kilometers from town, but found it completely devastated. Even snorkeling at the coral reef (equipment rental: 150 pesos) underwhelmed – the hurricane had destroyed most marine life. Local dive operators promoted scuba trips for $70-100 USD, claiming the reef was beautiful further out, but after our experiences we took these promises with skepticism.
Did You Know?
In the Mayan language, “Cozumel” means “Island of Swallows.” Legend says women would come here to pray to goddess Ixchel for fertility. Today, the island is better known for cruise ships and American tourists than ancient rituals.
Isla Mujeres: The Caribbean in Miniature
Disappointed by Cozumel, we crossed to Isla Mujeres (“Island of Women”), named by Spanish conquistadors who found numerous goddess figurines here. Unlike older guidebooks suggest, the island isn’t cheap anymore – prices cater to American tourists. After much searching, we found a room for 300 pesos.
The island center is a tourist showcase: pricey restaurants, souvenir shops, and bars. But step off the main street to discover real Mexico – small comedores (eateries) where you can enjoy hearty meals with locals for 50 pesos.
Isla Mujeres’ greatest assets are its stunning white-sand beaches with palm trees. The Gulf of Mexico waters are crystal clear and warm, though very shallow – you must walk hundreds of feet to reach chest-deep water. Perfect for relaxing, but not for deep-water swimmers.
Nightlife & Cuban Rhythms
Evenings on Isla Mujeres pulse with music – mostly country and pop for American visitors (beers cost 30-40 pesos, double mainland prices). But we discovered an authentic club where locals danced salsa to a live Cuban band. The energy was electric! The highlight was a hilarious “butt-shaking” contest – Mexican women perform this with unbelievable grace.
Final Day: Seafood Feast & Moonlit Swim
On our last day, we tried snorkeling again near Isla Mujeres. The reef still disappointed (Egypt beats Mexico hands-down here), but we had a culinary adventure instead. The boat crew caught a huge fish they grilled before us. Fresh seafood shared with new friends became the trip’s highlight.
We spent our final night swimming at the beach under a full moon – a romantic ending to our Mexican adventure before the long airport hours and flights home…
Travel Tip:
For beautiful beaches – choose Isla Mujeres. For diving – consider Belize instead. To experience real Mexico, always venture beyond tourist areas – that’s where the best memories hide.
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