Introduction
I have been to Nepal twice. The first visit (2004) was dedicated to tourist attractions in Kathmandu and the surrounding areas. The second time was in 2023. The trek to Annapurna Base Camp was the main highlight of the expedition. You can read about the Annapurna Base Camp trek here: https://en.orbhike.net/abc/. Flying to Nepal by plane, we could admire the panorama of the Himalayas. It’s a pity that the cloudy sky hindered fully enjoying the view.
Kathmandu
The capital of Nepal is one of the few Asian cities I visited twice. I was in Kathmandu almost 20 years ago for the first time. In my memory, it was an affable, perhaps slightly provincial town. In 2023, the capital of Nepal resembles busy, crowded, and noisy Asian metropolises. The air is heavily polluted, making it difficult to breathe. The significant traffic of scooters and small Suzuki cars hinders movement through the narrow streets of the capital. Practically all the time, you have to fight for your life not to be run over by a scooter or a car. The charm of Kathmandu from the first visit disappeared irreversibly. The capital of Nepal resembles Old Delhi.
Traditionally, we looked for accommodation in the tourist district of Thamel. We liked the Yaksa hotel the most. We got a beautiful room on the 8th floor with a view of the city. The price was 1700 NPR. In 2004, I stayed at the Pacifist hotel. A room with a bathroom and hot water cost 250 NRP. Prices in Nepal have increased enormously; only for the visa, we paid the same, 30 USD.
We went for the first walk around the capital. In the evening, we observed a religious ceremony during which a bull was killed and disassembled. After roasting, it was eaten with rice by the faithful. During the first walk in the capital, we met Marek. He and his girlfriend were on a year-long tour of Asia. They traveled from Poland to India by land. We arranged to have dinner together. I was very surprised when six people from Poland showed up for dinner. For dinner, we had Tibetan dishes. The dumplings with lamb filling and Tibetan millet beer, Tungba, tasted excellent. When exploring Nepal, you must try them. The food in Nepal was excellent for me, people were friendly, and less intrusive than Hindus. During our stay of several days, we tried various dishes. All of them tasted delicious. I especially remember the dumplings, lamb steak, and local soups. In restaurants, we paid around 200 NPR for a two-course dinner. I found Nepalese dishes much more to my liking than Indian cuisine.
On the next day, we explored Kathmandu. Wonderful Buddhist temples are almost on every square in the city. In Kathmandu, it is worth visiting the Monkey Temples (Swayambhunath Stupa).
An exceptional place on the Kathmandu map is Durbar Square, closed to motor traffic. The square is home to old sacred and secular buildings built in the Newar architectural style, mostly in the 16th century or earlier. The monuments and their richly decorated facades are captivating, as is the wonderful atmosphere of the square. During our stay on the square, a festival with beautifully dressed women was taking place. The saris of Nepalese women make an equally amazing impression as the clothing of Hindu women. Unfortunately, the positive impression is marred by overt discrimination against white tourists. Nepalis and generally Asians do not buy cheap entrance tickets to the square (40 NPR), and no one chases them for the lack of tickets. Whites not only pay 1000 NPR for tickets but are checked at every step by all kinds of officials and uniformed personnel.
During my first visit to Nepal, we only saw the Himalayas from a viewpoint. We took a state bus to Nagarkot (2100 m above sea level). From this touristy town, there is a breathtaking view of the snow-capped peaks of the Himalayas. We also went for a several-hour walk through the surrounding villages.
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