Ciudad Bolívar – Gateway to the World of Tepuis

As dawn’s first light painted the horizon, our bus rolled into Ciudad Bolívar – a historic city perched along the mighty Orinoco River. This is where Simón Bolívar proclaimed the creation of Gran Colombia in 1819, and today serves as the launching point for expeditions to legendary Mount Roraima – one of Earth’s oldest geological formations.

First Steps in the City of History

We’d barely stepped off the bus when a local tour operator “hunted” us down. His unique selling point? Something rare in Venezuela – fluent English. After brief negotiations, we booked a 6-day Roraima trek with Ciudad Bolívar accommodation for $300 per person. A significant expense, but nature tourism carries premium prices here.

Plaza Bolívar in Ciudad Bolívar
Colonial charm of Ciudad Bolívar

Walking Through History

After resting at our hotel, we set out to explore the city’s charming corners. The heart of Ciudad Bolívar beats at Plaza Bolívar with its impressive 18th-century church and surrounding colonial buildings. Must-visit spots include:

  • Casa del Congreso de Angostura – Where the historic 1819 congress occurred
  • Jesús Soto Museum – Dedicated to Venezuela’s famous kinetic artist
  • Paseo Orinoco – Picturesque riverside promenade perfect for evening strolls

Locals, proud of their heritage, eagerly share stories about this city that was called Angostura until 1846 (origin of the famous bitters!).

Night Odyssey to San Francisco de Yuruaní

That evening we boarded a bus bound for San Francisco de Yuruaní – gateway to Canaima National Park. The journey became a surreal experience. Venezuelan highways are dotted with military checkpoints – about every 30-50 km. At each, machine gun-toting soldiers scrutinize passengers’ faces, often checking IDs. Near the Brazilian border, inspections grow increasingly rigorous.

This “totalitarian” process, though exhausting (reaching for passports instead of sleeping), serves a purpose – preventing smuggling and illegal border crossings. Ironically, these checks make overnight bus travel relatively safe in Venezuela.

Orinoco River at dusk
Sunset over the Orinoco

Regional Highlights

  • Ciudad Bolívar was Venezuela’s first electrified city (1888)
  • The Angostura Bridge (1967) was Latin America’s longest suspension bridge for years
  • Nearby rivers shelter rare pink freshwater dolphins
  • Most expeditions to Canaima National Park and Roraima depart from here

Ciudad Bolívar revealed itself as a fascinating blend of colonial history and gateway to Gran Sabana’s wilderness. Though our stay was brief, the city remains unforgettable – where time stands still and history intertwines with the present.