Isla Margarita – A Caribbean Paradise with Venezuelan Flair

We woke up in Tucupita with relief – finally leaving our miserable lodging. Our travel plans to Margarita quickly collided with Venezuelan reality – no buses to Puerto la Cruz until evening. In desperation, we chose a shared taxi to Maturin (200 km) for just 50 bolívars per person. Our driver, a typical “llanero” (plainsman), sped like crazy, exceeding 120 km/h, before handing us off to another taxi driver who pushed 150 km/h. Thus we experienced Venezuelan transportation – fast, cheap, and adrenaline-filled.

Crossing the Sea to the Island

In Puerto la Cruz, we received another lesson in local logistics – an hour in line for ferry tickets, thirty minutes at the “Confirmation” window, only to learn our ferry was canceled. Defeated, we found refuge at Hotel Familia Pasada (150 VEB), which proved a pleasant surprise. An evening stroll along the picturesque Paseo Colón, illuminated by colorful lights, and dinner at a local eatery (chicken and fries for 60 VEB for two) restored our travel luck.

Playa El Agua on Margarita Island
Playa El Agua – Isla Margarita’s golden sands

Juan Griego – Margarita’s Gem

The next day we finally reached Margarita – the island that was pirates’ favorite plunder in the 16th century and now attracts tourists with golden beaches. We based ourselves in Juan Griego, a charming town famous for Venezuela’s most spectacular sunsets. Each evening, beachfront restaurants filled with couples admiring nature’s show, sipping rum and feasting on fresh seafood.

Our days passed in blissful laziness – breakfasts with local fruits and excellent Venezuelan coffee, lounging on the beach, and swimming in turquoise Caribbean waters. Evenings brought a uniquely Venezuelan “attraction” – scheduled blackouts (“racionamiento eléctrico”) implemented by Hugo Chávez.

El Valle del Espíritu Santo
Nuestra Señora del Valle Basilica – Isla Margarita

Palm Sunday in El Valle del Espíritu Santo

We broke up our beach routine with two excursions. In Porlamar, the island’s capital, we bought plane tickets to Caracas (250 VEB) and unsuccessfully tried to arrange a trip to Los Roques archipelago – prices during Holy Week reached astronomical $300 per day.

The true spiritual journey was our visit to Nuestra Señora del Valle Basilica in El Valle del Espíritu Santo during Palm Sunday. This 16th-century statue of the Virgin Mary, patroness of sailors and all Venezuela, is renowned for miracles. Among the faithful, we spotted the special chair where Pope John Paul II sat during his 1995 visit – testament to this site’s significance.

Basilica in El Valle
Palm Sunday celebrations – Isla Margarita

Margarita Island Facts

  • Discovered by Columbus in 1498 during his third voyage
  • 16th-century pirate target, including attacks by Francis Drake
  • A duty-free zone – hence crowds of Venezuelan shoppers
  • Produces Venezuela’s finest rum – “Ron Pampero”
  • Only place in the country with wild flamingos

Margarita proved the perfect finale to our Venezuelan adventure – after trekking and wilderness challenges, we could finally relax Caribbean-style. Despite typical Venezuelan logistical hurdles and evening blackouts, the island enchanted us with its beauty, local hospitality, and unique atmosphere.